Sunday, January 22, 2012

January 2012 - Back in San Miguel de Allende - an incredible week


Gordon and Faye surprise us
Last Sunday started as a normal Sunday at breakfast with Barbara and David (we miss you Stan/Marcia and Kris/Cedric). Then we were off to the reception at my art show at Magenta Gallery. The show was hung and the guests were arriving.
Then, out of the corner of my eye I saw someone who looked like my cousin Gordon from North Carolina and my mind started playing games....where was I, where am I and how could Gordon be here without me knowing about it.  Then behind him came Faye and I knew where I was...all I could repeat over and over was "OMG" and I was jumping up and down and so excited. The story is that when I sent out the email announcement about this show they both looked at each other and said "Should we surprise Susan and Richard?" and they decided at that moment to come on down to SMA and join the fun. Both of Gordon's kids - Greg and family as well as Michelle have been here.
Good friends - Bob, Meredith and Andrea
So....what a great week it was for all of us. They stayed at a lovely B&B - Casa Maria and we managed to squeeze many activities into our busy schedule as well as delicious meals and breakfasts at Casa Maria.
The show was a great success and made us realize how many great friends we have here in SMA. Always fun to have our friends meet other friends.

Jose's birthday
David plays in concert
Other activities during our first few weeks here included a birthday party for Jose - our Spanish conversation teacher and friend and a music event by VIP Orchestre with David Ziff playing his sax.
First night of film festival with
Cindy and Ravi
The week was also filled as we volunteered with our friends Ravi and Cindy for the first "Satsang Film Festival". Richard was the tech person every night to turn on the movie - the most important job and I took tickets several times during the week.

Here is a sampling of some of our activities for the week including some usual and some new....yoga (both), new database creation volunteer work (R), acting classes (me), art classes (both), exercise with personal trainer (me), gym (R), data entry volunteer work (me), meditation (R)...whew. No wonder I am tired at night. Still need to figure out when to include Spanish conversation into this schedule.  We have a great house sitting opportunity now and another one in mid Feb to the end of March.

Many of you are wondering about our future plans this year. Here is the scoop. We will be in Mexico till early April (with a few side trips) and then to USA for the month of April. We will head to Spain for May and June to walk the Camino de Santiago in Northern Spain. We are doing loads of planning and buying of lightweight supplies to carry in our new backpacks. Then back to US for July and back to Mexico for August. That is as far as the plan exists for the moment. Any ideas are always welcome for the future.

We are happy to be back "home" in SMA but we do miss all the friends we met during our travels in Ecuador and Peru. How blessed we are with so many swell "peeps" in our lives.

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

January 2012 - ending in Peru and returning to San Miguel de Allende

 I am writing now from San Miguel de Allende but not wanting to leave out two outstanding events in Peru. We joined with thousands in the Plaza in Cusco to bring in the year. Yes, some were wearing yellow underwear (we presume). I found out that the tradition is that someone has to give them to you and that it brings good luck. Since I bought them for Richard I guess he will have the luck for both of us. We began to walk around the Plaza as the tradition is to run or walk around 12 times to bring luck for travels in the next year. We stopped halfway around as we felt like we would be trampled by many who seemingly had more than necessary to drink.
Thousands in the Plaza de Armas at midnight
The Cusco Flag
On New Years Day we had our goodbye lunch with Telma and Jean-Jacques which was a bit sad but we promised to see each other again in the future. It was the hardest part about leaving...saying goodbye to good friends, even though we were heading back to many equally great friends. I guess that is the life of the gypsies and I can see why many folks stay in one place with their friends so this does not have to keep happening. Later that day we took a 13 hour bus from Cusco to Nasca overnight and arrived early the next day.
Nasca was an incredible place, not for the town which was nothing to see at all, but for the Nasca Lines. Here is information from Wikipedia about the lines. No one really knows to this date why they were made. Again in Peru...a connection to the past in ways that we had never known about before.

The Nazca Lines are a series of ancient geoglyphs located in the Nazca Desert in southern Peru. They were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The high, arid plateau stretches more than 80 kilometres (50 mi) between the towns of Nazca and Palpa on the Pampas de Jumana about 400 km south of Lima. Although some local geoglyphs resemble Paracas motifs, scholars believe the Nazca Lines were created by the Nazca culture between 400 and 650 AD.[1] The hundreds of individual figures range in complexity from simple lines to stylized hummingbirds,spiders, monkeys, fish, sharks, orcas, llamas, and lizards.
The lines are shallow designs made in the ground by removing the ubiquitous reddish pebbles and uncovering the whitish ground beneath. Hundreds are simple lines or geometric shapes; more than seventy are zoomorphic designs of animals such as birds, fish, llamas, jaguar, monkey, or human figures. Other designs include phytomorphic shapes such as trees and flowers. The largest figures are over 200 metres (660 ft) across. Scholars differ in interpreting the purpose of the designs, but in general they ascribe religious significance to them.
The geometric ones could indicate the flow of water or be connected to rituals to summon water. The spiders, birds, and plants could be fertility symbols. Other possible explanations include: irrigation schemes or giant astronomical calendars.[2]
Due to the dry, windless, and stable climate of the plateau and its isolation, for the most part the lines have been preserved. Extremely rare changes in weather may temporarily alter the general designs.

The flight over the lines in a small Cessna seated 7 people. Several (including Ricardo) did not feel well during the flight as the banking from left to right to allow for photos made it very uncomfortable. It was also really hot and we had not really slept well the night before on our long bus ride. However, putting that aside, it was one of the most interesting half hours of our lives. Here you can see the astronaut and the hummingbird (93 meters).



 The next day we went to Lima and spent two nights. Also a chance to catch up with our friends Tess and Cathy and Pavel. We went Gaston y Astrid - a fancy restaurant in Lima serving fusion Peruvian food - they have several restaurants in South America and are working hard to bring Peruvian food to the world, with much success.
It was the warmest time we had during our 4 months and walked along the beach in Lima and as it was their summer vacation - many were enjoying the beach.


And now, we are back in San Miguel with our friends and our full lives. We felt great coming "home" and also so grateful for this last 4 months.
Thanks for coming on this trip with us and you will hear from us again but surely not as often as our lives here are more "regular". Happy New Year to all.

Saturday, December 31, 2011

December 31, 2011 Wishing all a Happy New Year

Reverse warrior
 Here we are at our yoga studio...Free Spirit Peru with Al Toth. We went almost every day for the last two months and had a great time. We will miss you Al...your jokes but more than that...your kind personality and comfortable yoga teaching style.
Handstand
We had a great holiday week celebrating both holidays in Cusco, Peru. It is New Years Eve and we are getting ready for the big celebration tonight at the Plaza de Armas at midnight. As we are leaving Cusco tomorrow, this has been a bittersweet time....saying goodbye to some good friends. We are excited for the next adventure, but it is always hard to say goodbye to people that we know we will not see for a long time. We do hope to come back to Cusco again, especially for these friendships.

Here are pictures with captions to explain the happenings this week from just before Christmas to today. I shall have to let you know about tonight's events in a few days.


Finished these earrings for our friend Telma

Clothes for baby Jesus. The day before
Christmas there is a big festival in the center
of Cusco with items for Nativity scenes as
well as garments for Jesus. Tradition
has that one buys new clothes every year.

Our Christmas tree, llama, creche and gifts

Jean-Jacques prepares Christmas eve dinner

Christmas eve with friends at Centro Tinku.
We both spent the afternoon helping to
get ready for this delicious meal.

The Nativity at the Plaza de Armas

The tradition for New Years is to wear
 yellow underwear.We don't know why,
except for good luck

Our anniversary gifts...yellow underwear
for good luck.
 Yesterday, Dec. 30th was our 21st wedding anniversary. We celebrated by joining our friend Gaby with her family in the countryside - about one hour from Cusco. It was a beautiful day and once again, it was difficult saying goodbye to all but we will return.
A view from the mountain top in the countryside

collecting flowers on the hike

watching the rain coming in from the top
of the mountain

Here we are just before the rain came.
We hurried down the mountain.
Tonight we will head to the Plaza de Armas at 11pm. We know that at midnight there will be fireworks but also the tradition for those who hope for good luck and travel in the year 2012...to run around the Plaza 12 times for this luck to happen. We shall surely walk, if not run to insure our luck in travel. Also, as the tradition is in Mexico...each person eats 12 grapes - for good luck each month in the coming year. I have our grapes ready too. We are not sure what other festivities will happen but we will find out tonight. (We will be wearing our yellow underpants). Yellow is the big theme here...people have yellow flowers everywhere and also put yellow confetti around their houses. We saw big yellow eyeglasses and yellow flower necklaces all over town today also. This afternoon we did a few things that we had missed these last 2 months - the Coca museum and the church in San Blas that has an incredible wood carved alter. The Coca museum explains all the uses of coca which is many - both medicinal as well as illegal drug use. It was really interesting to learn about. Richard has been drinking coca tea here every day as most do. (I did not care for the taste). We would have loved to bring some home but are afraid as though it is not illegal, nor a drug....it probably would be frowned upon in Mexico or the US at the borders! 

This has been an incredible 4 months and as you all have followed...we had interesting times with friends in all the places we have been - mostly local with some from foreign lands. We both learned much about the cultures of Ecuador and Peru, improved our Spanish, enjoyed our travel together and hope for more adventures to come.

Tomorrow we shall leave for Nasca and will fly over the Nasca lines on Monday afternoon. Then on to Lima and back to San Miguel on Thursday, January 5th. Thanks for traveling with us and our hopes to all for a VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR with love from the both of us.

Sunday, December 18, 2011

December 18 - amazing trip to Lake Titicaca

Bus tour to several sites along the route
 of the Incas from Puno to Cusco. We
traveled with Cruz del Sur.

Raqui - walls up to 15 meters high - unique
in the Inca empire
This short trip from Cusco to Lake Titicaca was one of the best and unique trips of our lives - other worldly would describe it.

We started out last Thursday on the Cruz del Sur luxury bus to Puno. It was a tour bus that stopped at several spots along this famous Inca route which made it more fun as a way to travel and broke up the trip nicely. We arrived in Puno, a commercial city right on the lake to a heavy rain storm so we did not really get a chance to see the city at night. We really did not have any idea of what the tour to the various islands would be like and we were tempted to cancel it all thinking that the weather would be terrible. I am so glad that we did not cancel.  We were picked up for our two day trip to the islands in the morning and taken to our boat. 

La Raya - the highes point along the route
at 4335 meters above sea level. Notice
the snow capped mountains in the background
We met the rest of our fellow travelers and by the time we ended on Sat afternoon we had many new friends - hopefully to stay connected for years to come. This was one of the best parts of the trip....the fact that so many from all different lands could come together (all ages from 6 - 60's) and bond in such a short time. [Represented were Eduardo (age 8) and his brother Enrique with mom and dad Katty and Jose from Venezuela; Paul (Wales) and Anny (Peru and Spain)who live in Switzerland; Pavel from Lima, Peru; Celia (Japan) and Denis (France) who lives in New Caledonia - islands in the South Pacific; and Werner and Christine from Austria]. Some of our new friends will be in Cusco during our final two weeks here and we will meet them again.
The floating island of Iros

Greeted by the women of Iros

Small cookstove on Iros

Boats of this style still used to get
from one island to another - we road on this boat

Our first island stop was Islas Uros which are "floating islands" made of reeds that grow in the shallows of Lake Titicaca. By the way, this lake is the highest navigable lake in the world at 3830 meters (almost 12000 ft). This island is prepared for tourists and though a feeling of "Disneyland" was still interesting to view how differently people live in this world. They live in small reed houses, travel with reed boats and are self sufficient in many ways. Iros is only one hour by boat from Puno so some do travel to the mainland....unlike the other islands that we visited which are much farther away. There are primary schools on the island but no high school or beyond.
On our boat - 3 hour boat trip from Iros to
Amantani. Here I am with Eduardo, age 8 from
Venezuela. We spent much of our boat
travel time together - drawing in our
journals and painting with watercolor.

In the afternoon we traveled three hours to Isla Amantani our spot for the night. This island operates its tourism as a collective. About 4000 people live on the island in 10 communities and each takes turns hosting tourists in their homes. We stayed with Theo and his family along with Anny and Paul. We were served simple meals - lunch (almuerzo) dinner (cena) and breakfast the next morning. All the food is grown on the islands and was vegetarian because it is much cheaper. There is fishing though fish was not served in our family. We had quinoa soup, potatoes and some vegetables for the main meals and a fried type dough for breakfast.
After lunch we all hiked to the top of the island - a spiritual spot for the people with remains of pre-Inca ruins that are still used for their holiday celebrations.

The accomodations were simple, but sufficient. It was quite cold on the island at night but we were basically prepared having brought our long underwear and several layers of clothing. Shortly after dinner we were given some local clothing and dressed (over our clothes) for the party or "disco" that night. Everyone gathered and we danced around to music for a time with lots of laughter as we looked ridiculous but the people of the island seemed to enjoy us. Richard was his fun loving self and got everyone out on the dance floor. We left but there were 30 or so young people from one of the other islands who stayed on.
Farming on Isla Amantani

Terraces and homes on Amantani

The Disco at Amantani

Our family at Amantani - we hope to visit again sometime

More terraces on the island
The next morning Richard was up very early (at sunrise) and went out to explore the island a bit. After our breakfast we all met again at the boat for the next island which was Isla Taquile. We spent several hours walking on the island and then had lunch at another cooperatively organized restaurant. This time there was local trout for those who wished and some rice, potatoes, omelette and tomato. This island is also self sufficient for its food and its main industry is textile - knitted hats, scarfs, bracelets and other items...all in small needles with colorful designs done by both men, women and children. Many of the items found in other parts of Peru are coming from this island.
Hand knit - all made on the island of Taquile - famous for
these knit designs done by both men and women.
 Amusing to the families,the tour guides and our new friends was Richard who when asked for his name answered with "Hombre de arana" - Spiderman. Everyone on the islands laughed and was amused by his fun loving ways. In the end they were all calling him Hombre de arana.
Leaving Isla Taquile

Hombre de arana (Spiderman) taking
a short time at the helm of our boat back
to Puno.
For the return we went to Puno and several of us had dinner and left on a 10pm bus which arrived back in Cusco at 4:30 am this morning. It was a quick trip but for us, most amazing and a window into an unusual world. We were on the Peru side of Lake Titicaca but learned from many that the Bolivian side and islands are different yet again so we shall put that on our list of things to do in the future.
Now we are back in Cusco with new friends to meet this week, Spanish classes for another two weeks, yoga and of course ... the holidays.
We shall take this time to wish everyone HAPPY HOLIDAYS and a PEACEFUL AND HEALTH NEW YEAR.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

December 11 - friends and volunteering


Drinking "Chicha Morada" - a drink
made from purple corn 


Our 20 year old friend Tess from Holland
(and Peru)

My new home away from home with
Yeni at the bead store. We are enjoying
teaching each other - in Spanish only!

Friends along the way during our
7 hour hike in the countryside

More friends - Chantal from France and
Cathy from Berkeley, CA. This is a very
transient community but somehow we have
met some great people to share time with

Fredy and his wife Monica. Fredy was our
guide on the Inca trail 6 years ago. We
had the chance to spend the whole day with
the family today.
Catching up again with Fredy and his family has been great. We loved our hike of the Inca Trail 6 years ago to Machu Piccu and that's why we did not do it again - we wanted to keep the memory of the first time alive because it was so special. We are still in touch through email and facebook with many of the folks from that trip and they are also so happy that we reunited with Fredy. Today we spent the whole day with him and his family and visited his mother as well - we traveled to several small villages and ruins that we had not seen. Really it would be possible to see ruins every day in different parts of the countryside,

The street up to San Blas where we walk
every day for our yoga classes. Rare
to see the street with no cars.

The valley of Cusco - surrounded by mountains

The Plaza de Armas - decorated for Navidad


Fredy's mother grinding dandelions -
making a special drink for Fredy for
his health

My new best friend and spanish teacher -
Fredy's youngest daughter
Proud store owner - this hat is typical
of a small town outside Cusco.
Another big adventure this week was joining some folks from the local Indian Restaurant in Cusco who provide food for children several days each week. Driving in a police truck the many volunteers headed to a local school on the outskirts of the Cusco - high up on the mountain overlooking the city. The kids were so grateful and sweet and so happy to say a few English words to us of thanks or hello as they ate their large plates of rice with stew. In Cusco, just like in SMA, there are many volunteers and many volunteer opportunities.
With a police escort we head to a
school on the outskirts of Cusco to
feed 250 kids.



high - fives!


They may not have much in the way of food
but they have a great view of Cusco!

Everyone is happy!