Continuing in Portugal: Évora and Coimbra

Typical street in Évora

We left you in Lisbon heading to Évora. This was a special place - a walled in small college town of 57,000 - only one hr west of Lisbon. Noticeably different were its white buildings with a yellow golden accent. This was a time for us to "chill out" as we had 5 days in this small city. We found nice long walks for exercise every day either inside or outside the "walls".  We are now traveling in a "slow" pace of taking it easy every morning (though Richard is up early enjoying his morning quiet.) I am not sure how I will readjust to another world where the daylight comes early and I get back to rising early. We feel we are now "living in Portugal".

Roman Forum

Aqueduct along walking path

In Évora we stayed in a cute Airbnb (recommended by our friends Erin and Philip.) Our routine almost every day was to go to Salsa Verde - a buffet vegetarian/vegan restaurant.

Our side trip outside of town was with Mario of Ebora Megalithica Guided Tours.  He is a very knowledgeable archaeologist and we enjoyed great explanations of the Megalithic sites from Neolithic age 2000 years before Stonehenge as well as current politics of Portugal and the world. If you get a chance to visit Évora - take a tour with Mario.

Almendres megalithic site - 2000 years before Stonehenge

Cork removed from bottom trunk
of trees - Portugal leads the world
in cork production and export

Solitary stones -
The Monte dos Alemendres menhir

Zambujeiro Dolmen - one of the collective
funeral monuments

From above the campus in Coimbra

Exhibit of all the planets at the
University Science Museum

We left for Coimbra which we had heard much about. This was about twice the size of Évora with a large and very famous old University from the 16th century which is the main attraction even today. School was not in session when we were there so we did not get to see students wearing their black robes or capes which apparently they still do in this very traditional school. I captured the back of one of them walking away.

The old Chem lab sink

Coimbra

University at Coimbra

Old tiles used for mathematics at Univ.

We did the usual churches and monasteries and are beginning to tire of them - liking the gardens and outdoor spaces more. An exception for a museum was the University Museum of Science, housed in the old Chemistry building with old and new mixed together. I guess that is the theme of Coimbra - the old and the new. Walking the streets, visiting these ancient buildings gives me a feeling of connection to the past. Again, the streets were narrow and cobbled - with the daily rain making walking a little more difficult.

Typical cape of campus students

Fado in Coimbra

Coimbra is also known for Fado, the music I described from Lisbon though it is apparently a little different in Coimbra. We enjoyed a short concert in the Santa Cruz Cafe and appreciate the talent of the singer though we could not understand a word.

We made a decision to head to Porto for the next 12 days instead of shorter trips to other places and we are now here ready for our last adventures.

Again - some feelings from Ricardo: Évora verses Coimbra

We have now visited two different university towns of ancient origins Évora being about 57,000 and Coimbra being about 106,000 people. What I have come to see is that size means everything to me especially when it come to places to visit. In this case small is better but a larger town like Coimbra will naturally have more options. The other factor when you plan to move about every 5 days is the weather. The weather in Évora was calmer due to less rain. We are now in the rainy season here in Portugal so everyday can take a different turn. Évora was flat so we took longer walks where Coimbra was hilly and the walking more strenuous. I recommend visiting both places in Portugal and see which you would prefer.  I liked them both but prefer the smaller Évora experience. We are now on the last leg of our trip in Porto and I will summarize more when we write our next and last post from this part of the world.

The University Botanical Garden - spring is coming!!